Saturday, December 20, 2014

Remembering Bebet And How the Bhutan Project Got Kick-started

Roberto Bebet Gaudinez
 Bebet Gaudinez was determined to go to Bhutan even if it were the last thing he did. He was an excellent travel photographer who had made it on the cover of a prominent magazine. He already did several photo exhibits.  And with his gray beard, he looked like the Pinoy version of Karl Marx but with more scalp to show. He did not look sick.

Bebet approached me because he learned that I wanted to go back to Bhutan. I agreed to help despite the fact that his oncologist gave him two years to live. At that time, we calculated he still had about eight months left. I don't know why I went against medical common sense. He was a year my senior in San Beda high school. And he was just a casual acquaintance. I suppose I just could not let down a man who sincerely believed that a trip to the magical kingdom in the Himalayas would make him well.  And having been there, I thought it might just work. 

MARIJUANA AND BANKING

Bebet was a vice president of a major banking corporation. How he even became a banker perpetually baffled classmates at school reunions. We knew him as the best source of high grade marijuana. Perhaps, his brief stay in the Benedictine abbey to contemplate on becoming a monk did him some good. He eventually decided to get married instead and become one of the pioneers of information technology in the Philippine banking industry.  Along the way he also developed his penchant for photography.

THE BHUTAN MEDIATOR

I had to enlist the help of another Bedan schoolmate. Classmates remember him for the great dive he took into the hotel swimming pool in full tuxedo during our seniors’ ball. (I never found out why.) Anyway, Eddie Jose is now a world-renowned Asian Art restorer based in Washington State, USA. He has been visiting Bhutan two months a year for the past 10 years to train Bhutanese monks on how to repair and restore their priceless ancient religious art works. He agreed to help Bebet.

INDIANA JONES PAST MIDLIFE

the routes we took into Bhutan (vista photo)
But Eddie upped the ante by suggesting that we do a cross-country expedition of the mountain kingdom. A country the size of Switzerland should pose no challenge except that it was at an altitude higher than our Mt. Apo. “No one has done this yet”, he said. “And after that, please take photos of the badly damaged wall paintings of two of Bhutan’s most important religious shrines -- the Phajoding monastery and Dungtse Lakhang”, the diving mediator added.

By this time, I had already recruited five other photographers who were “mature” enough to appreciate unique cultures and yet strong enough for the rigorous adventure. But I wondered if the team, mostly overweight, fiftyish city slickers, were all fit for this. Bebet would take the direct flight from Bangkok to Paro. For the rest, it meant months of physical preparation. I also invited Tony, a chest surgeon and a classmate in med school and an avid photographer, to join the team. He was added insurance just in case Bebet turned for the worse.   Tony warned me though that should Bebet develop severe breathing difficulties, he could only tube him up and that we might have to leave him behind. Should he die there, Eddie reminded us that he would have to be cremated first. No cadavers are allowed to leave Bhutan.  Bebet just chuckled upon hearing this.


UNTIMELY DEPARTURE

However, eight months later and just as we were finally getting our long delayed Bhutanese visa, Bebet began coughing up blood. Vince, the lung specialist he consulted, handed out the painful verdict. It deeply saddened everyone in the team. He wouldn’t make it in the thin air of the Himalayas. His lung cancer had progressed.  A few weeks later, on March 31, 2012, Bebet died quietly in his sleep.

And so it was in his memory that our team we called Vista (meaning: view) embarked on a 16-day cross-country expedition of a kingdom in the Himalayas. We flew to India and drove into Bhutan by its eastern and western land border entries. And, we took photographs as we drove past gorges and mountain passes. We met peasants and royalty along the way. We visited their homes as well. We also succeeded in photographing the ancient art works in the two shrines that are due for renovation.

eddie jose lighting a candle for bebet before phuja
(photo courtesy of eddie jose) 

CLOSE CALLS

We survived mountain leeches and some close calls. Ricci developed a serious case of altitude sickness while climbing up to Dr. Gado's birthplace in Haa. Ricci turned paper white and felt like he was going to die. Dr. Gado who was the former secretary of health promptly advised them to go low altitude. Ricci had to stay in bed for three days in Punakha until he recovered fully. Tony was there constantly assuring him that he will survive.  And, Keith fell from his horse while on the way up the atmospheric Phajoding monastery. Luckily, a thicket caught him and the ravine that was two meters away was quite deep.   There was also the constant bellyaching over the long climbs but the satisfaction of being able to reach our destination and witnessing the spectacular views made up for the blisters and near mishaps. 

We made it! I would like to believe that Bebet made sure of that!  You see, there was always marijuana growing in the places we went to!!!


And on the day of our departure for Manila, a phuja, a special Buddhist ceremony, was held in Bebet’s honor. 18 Bhutanese monks prayed for his soul’s next journey as we flew home.

Eddie Jose and the monks offering phuja for Bebet in Thimphu. (photo courtesy of eddie jose)

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